Do you want a tailored fit for your Kalina cuffs? Make them fit your individual measurements? Let me help you!
Our Kalina Blouse sewing pattern is the reason and example for this fitting tutorial
The Kalina Blouse version C features gigot sleeves with beautiful fitted cuffs that shine best, when fitted to your measurements
But this tutorial will also walk you through the steps to fit any cuff to your individual measurements.
Why should you alter the cuffs?
Everyone's size and shape is a little different. A sewing pattern can never accommodate for all sewists. But all sewists want the perfect fit! I mean, that's part of the reason why we sew, right?
Making adjustments to the pattern is part of the sewing journey that allows you to customize the fit perfectly to your body and ensures that your handmade garments look great!
Investing a little time into the pattern alteration beforehand is very rewarding. Let me show you how to do it!
01 - About the Cuff Pattern
Since everyone's different, we included a general sized cuff in the Kalina sewing pattern that should fit most sizes. But your cuff definitely looks best, if you have it custom tailored to your shape.
The details are also explained in the Kalina Blouse sewing pattern instructions - but lets show you a more detailed tutorial here.
02 - Making a Mockup / Muslin
Make a mockup / muslin of the cuff from a scrap piece of fabric. Cut away upper and lower SA of the cuff (you simply don't need it for the mockup)
Remember to mark all important pattern indications such as the button position.
Try on your mockup cuff and pin closed according to the indications on the pattern. The pieces need to overlap for the buttonclosure.
What alterations do you need?
Decide how you like the fit of it. You can tailor the cuff to however you like it, but we recommend a fitted, but not tight fit - meaning you should be able to move freely with a 2-finger-gap or approximately 2 cm / 0.8 inch
This step may be easier with the help of a friend.
03 - Take Measurements
Take both circumferences from the bottom and the top of the cuff and note them
down like so:
measurement taken from mockup
+ 2 cm (ease) = your new cuff measurement
We added the 2 cm / 0,8 inch for comfort (ease) as explained above
04 - Alter the Paper Pattern
Depending on your measurements the cuff either needs to be adjusted to be smaller or bigger. Let's look at both:
04 - 1 - Making your cuff smaller
Cut away the access - we don't need it anymore.
Depending on how much you altered the shape of the cuff, you will need to correct the seamlines as shown. Try to mimic the original shape and to create a smooth new line.
04 - 2 - Making your cuff bigger
Making your cuff bigger means, that you need to add paper to enlarge the paper pattern. Start by dividing/ cutting the cuff into two equal parts along the middle/grainline. Now tape some additional paper to your paper pattern.
Measure and mark your points now.
Cut away the access - we don't need it anymore.
Depending on how much you altered the shape of the cuff, you will need to correct the seamlines as shown. Try to mimic the original shape and to create a smooth new line.
I hope your cuffs fit perfectly now!
Let us know how you liked the tutorial please!
Lucy & Faye
